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Monday, April 29, 2019

Silkies, Turkeys and Geese, Oh My!

Now that we have moved past Easter Chicks and our brooder is a little quieter, I have ordered some special birds for those expanding their flock. I do suggest if you want these birds you pre-pay. Please call the store and place an order to insure you get the birds you want. Thank You, Anice










Assorted Silkies 5/1 $    (30 ordered)   3.99 each
 Image result for assorted silkie chicks

Geese 5/8         $12.99
African 4 (brown)
Chinese 4 (white)
Image result for difference between african and chinese geese






Turkeys  5/14        $12.99
Bourbon Red  5
Royal Palm ALL SOLD
Chocolate 5
Narragansett 5
















Image result for royal palm turkey
ROYAL PALM
Image result for bourbon red turkey
BOURBON RED
Image result for narragansett turkey
NARRAGANETT
Image result for chocolate turkey breed
CHOCOLATE

Friday, April 26, 2019

Keeping Your Chickens Safe

https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/keep-chickens-safe-from-predators/


21 Tips: Keeping Your Chickens Healthy And Safe From Predators


21 Tips Keeping Your Chickens Healthy And Safe From Predators
We all love our fluffy, feathered friends and want to do the best for them. If you already have an established flock or haven’t started yet and are still in the planning stages – this article is definitely for you.
Before I got my chickens I spent the better part of a year researching the breed of chicken I wanted, how to house them and how to keep them safe and healthy.
I was called overly obsessive at times, but so far my efforts have paid off dividends as my girls are healthy and happy and we haven’t had any issues with predators in 5 years.
Today I have put together my favorite 21 tips for keeping your chickens safe from predators and healthy.

Coop Defenses

Protecting your flock from predators starts with the coop.
Whether you buy it pre-made or build the coop yourself, there are several simple things you can do to make it safer for your chickens.

1. Know The Enemy

First of all you, need to be aware of likely predators in your area: foxes, hawks, owls, coyotes, raccoons and possums tend to be the most common.
If you know which predators are likely to attack you can create effective defenses to stop them.
Some of these predators are very smart, others opportunists. Each can be deterred by simple backyard security.

2. Bury Chicken Wire

The Best Chicken Wire
Yard Guard Netting
If you are constructing a run, it’s important to remember that many predators will try to dig under the run to attack your girls.
One thing to remember: chicken wire will keep chickens in; hardware mesh will keep predators out.
A determined, hungry animal can and will break through chicken wire.
When building your run, make sure you bury hardware mesh at least 2 feet deep around the compound- 4 feet deep would be ideal.

Chicken Coop Buried Chicken Wire
Dig a trench about 6 inches deep and 3 inches wide and bury the hardware mesh to create an underground security perimeter.
This will deter most predators from digging.
If you are using a chicken tractor instead of a run, the same principal applies. Cover the floor of the tractor in hardware mesh to prevent predators digging their way to your chickens.
Note: Occasionally when chickens stand on wire floors in chicken tractors for long periods of time their feet can get cut, so check their feet regularly for cuts or sores.

3. Cover Their Coop

If you live in an area with lots of hawks and owls you will need to place a cover over your run.
You can use chicken wire to cover your run- this still provides your chickens with visibility but stops any air-bound predators swopping down and attacking your flock.
If you want your birds to have some shade, as well as protection, you could use a tarp sheet instead of chicken wire.

4. Increase Visibility

If you are fortunate enough to have a large garden, make sure you cut down any tall grass, bush or overgrown areas within 50-75 feet of your coop.
The less cover a predator has, the more vulnerable they are at being seen before attacking.
This with thwart less confident predators, as they won’t risk exposing themselves to attack.

5. Block Any Access Holes

Make sure you regularly check your coop for any access holes.
Even small trivial gaps/holes can be used by predators to gain access to the coop- a weasel can squeeze through a ½ inch hole.
You do not want a weasel in your coop.
A weasel will kill seemingly for the fun of it and can kill a moderate size flock in a night.
Remember to check your coop at least monthly for signs of attempted entry and reinforce those areas.

6. Lock Your Ladies Up At Night

Most importantly, remember to lock up your ladies at night!
Use a mechanism that can’t be opened by smart creatures. Raccoons are notoriously intelligent and they can open simple locks & bolts.
I like to use a Carabiner because it requires opposable thumbs to use.
Also remember to use a padlock to keep out the ultimate predator – man.
Unfortunately several of my friends have had their chickens stolen either for dinner, or because it’s a rare breed.
I use three locks on my coop – two on the entrance door and a separate lock for the ‘pop’ door.

7. Check Your Biosecurity

Make sure you clean up your pen in the evening after your chickens have gone to roost- pay special attention to any scraps and food lying around.
We may not think of rats as predators, but they are attracted by leftover food. Once they have moved in to the neighborhood, they can and will eat eggs and chicks.
If you see rats during the daytime, it’s likely you have a serious problem.
Note: Rats dislike daylight so only the ones lower in the hierarchy will risk a daylight raid.

8. Be Alert For Snakes

Check your coop daily for snakes. Black, rat and corn snakes will pilfer eggs and on occasion, small chicks. They can simply be re-located to another area if necessary, although snakes do help keep down the vermin.
Snake In Birds Nest
If you find that certain snakes keep returning to your coop, you will need to capture them and relocate them elsewhere.

9. Collect Eggs Daily

A lot of predators will only break into your coop to get eggs.
If you make sure to collect your eggs frequently during the day you will deter many predators- especially rats and snakes!

10. Fit Motion Sensor Lighting

Predators such as raccoons will only attack in the dark at night.
You can fit solar powered motion-detection lights to your coop to stop predators attacking.
The light will turn on when it detects any motion near the coop. They can also be modified to send you an alarm when the lights are activated.
Most predators will simply run away from the spotlight.

Free Ranging Defense

Whilst it’s relatively easy to secure a chicken coop and run, what do you do when your chickens are free-range?
Keeping free range chickens safe is hard but not impossible if you follow the tips below.

11. Hang Your Old CDs

If you have free ranging hens it can be more difficult to protect them against birds of prey.
One effective way I’ve found is to hang unwanted CDs from trees, posts etc.
The reflection of the sun from the CD will deter them. You can also use pie pans, disco balls – anything that will reflect light.
Note: Do not use mirrors; you don’t want to accidentally start a fire!

12. Use Electric Fences

If your chickens are free-ranging you can erect an electric fence around the perimeter to keep predators away.
They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
I don’t personally use electric fences, but people I know who have them swear by them.

13. Install Safety Shelters

Sometimes with birds of prey they can get extremely desperate and will attack no matter what.
Make a couple of safety shelters for your birds to run into. You can use a 55 gallon plastic drum cut lengthways or a wooden pallet perched on blocks.
Safety Chicken Shelter
If your chickens get caught out whilst they are roaming they can run underneath these safety shelters to keep covered.

14. Get Roosters

Within town and city limits there are usually restrictions on having roosters – they can be a noisy pest to your neighbors.
Establishing The Pecking Order
There aren’t too many folks who like to be woken up at the crack of dawn by a rooster crowing his head off!
However, if you live in the country it’s usually ok.
A good rooster will protect his ladies and will give his life to preserve theirs.
Note: Make sure to research the breed of rooster you want thoroughly before you jump in and get one.

15. Use Guard Dogs

A guard dog does the same job as a rooster – only better.
Dogs can range further away from the flock and the scent of a dog is very disturbing to most predators, so they will likely leave your flock in peace.
Make sure your dog is good with your chickens before you leave them together unattended. You don’t want your guard dog turning into the predator!

Hygiene and Cleanliness

Chickens are inquisitive creatures. They love to investigate new things and this can get them into trouble! The following tips will help you be more aware of potential hazards to your flock.
To keep your chickens safe you need to do more than just keep the predators at bay. Sometimes the biggest threats are already in your garden.

16. Avoid Toxic Chemicals

Weed killer and other commonly used garden chemicals (Insect Baits/Traps etc.) can be accidentally ingested by chickens.
As with small children, keep your flock away from any area of your garden which you may have sprayed or treated. Also keep the chemical bottles well away from your girls.
If your chickens do ingest any toxic chemical call your vet immediately.

17. Botulism

For those of you that haven’t heard of the term Botulism before, it’s a “rare poisoning caused by toxins”.
If you use poison to keep the rodent population in check, be aware your chickens can be poisoned by pecking at the carcass. You should dispose of any dead animals you find somewhere they can’t be accessed.
Botulism can also be caused by fouled drinking water (usually by ducks). If you keep ducks, make sure the chickens don’t make a habit of drinking water which the ducks have pooped in.

18. Clean Their Feeders

Following on from Botulism you need to keep food and water dishes clean.
I use a 1:10 bleach solution weekly in all my feeders and drinkers.

19. Keep Their Feed Fresh

Ensure your feed is fresh and not moldy.
Keep it stored in waterproof containers – plastic totes, garbage bins or something similar. Moldy feed can and does kill chickens, so make sure the lid for your containers is airtight also.

20. Keep Their Coop Tidy

A dirty coop not only attracts flies but can cause a number of health issues for your birds.
For instance high levels of ammonia can cause blindness and respiratory issues. I normally clean my coop once a week and occasionally more during winter. A good test is if you can smell ammonia in your coop – cleaning is overdue!

21. Ensure Regular Health Checks

Last but by no means least is regular health checks.
Try to check your birds visually every day.
Included in your visual health check should be a vent check. They can get matted and poopy back there- this creates a perfect environment for flystrike.
Cleaning Chicken Vent
Checking Chicken’s Vent
If it’s dirty – clean it.
Go gently using soap and water. Sit the bird in the warm water and try to soak off the matted area. You may have to trim some feathers.
These 21 tips will definitely help keep your chickens healthy and the predators at bay!

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

EASTER CHICKS ARE HERE!






Image result for baby chicks
Easter has always marked the beginning of Spring for buying baby chicks, ducks and bunnies as well as starting vegetable and flower gardens. Each year we order our Easter Chicks in January to assure we have a brooder full for those that follow this tradition.


This week our brooder will be over flowing with lots of baby chicks,. Here is our line up




One day old chicks
Ameracana
Barred Rock
Black Austalorps
Buff Brahmas
Light Brahmas
Buff Prphington
Golden Comets
Rhode Island Red
Gold Wyandotte
Silver Wyandotte



We have some week old chicks as well
Golden Comets
Rhode Island Red
Black Giants
Buckeyes



Two week old
Amberlinks


Also have some White and Bronze Turkeys





Monday, April 15, 2019

BABY CHICKS FOR YOUR EASTER BASKETS?

Plan Ahead for Buying Baby Chicks and Ducklings for Easter

Learn How to Raise Baby Chicks Before Making an Impulse Decision

Related image
Caring for baby chicks, ducks, and rabbits requires thought about how the animals will fit into your life. Those cute little balls of fluff are a lifetime commitment, at least the expected lifetime of the animal. In our more agrarian past, many people had some sort of farming or homesteading going on in their backyard. Or, they had a close by relative that lived on the farm.

Today, this is not usually the case. Many live Easter basket gifts are turned out to fend for themselves, once they grow bigger and messier. They may be turned into the local animal shelter, which is probably not equipped to care for or place grown rabbits, chickens and ducks.  Chickens and Ducks are considered livestock and there may be local zoning laws not prohibiting backyard chickens in residential yards. Rabbits might be considered pets but not everyone appreciates the behavior of a house rabbit.
buying-baby-chicks

What to Know When Buying Baby Chicks, Ducklings, and Bunnies

Before buying baby chicks, ducklings, or baby rabbits for Easter gifts, take a moment to consider the following points.
Did you plan on raising animals in your backyard? The nicely maintained patio with flower beds and lawn chairs will become a playground for your new flock once they are turned out to free range in the yard. If you don’t have a secure fence, your neighbors may receive the benefits of chickens in their backyard too. The neighbors might not enjoy free ranging chickens, so this is definitely a point to clear up before bringing home chicks.
Are your children responsible? Are they old enough to learn about caring for baby chicks? Parental supervision will still be required in most cases. Many children can master the tasks of feeding watering and cleaning up a small coop. It’s still a good practice to take a look and make sure that everything was taken care of, as children can be easily distracted.
buying-baby-chicks
Have you considered the entire life span of the chicken, duck or rabbit? Chickens can easily live 5 to 8 years. Your laying hen will provide fresh eggs for the first few years. Then the egg laying will taper off until it rarely happens. The older hens still need food and a safe place to shelter. Ducks are friendly, agreeable pets and they also have rather long lifespans. Ducks provide endless entertainment which can add to the enjoyment the family finds taking care of the animals. Rabbits are excellent pets and can provide additional income for families willing to breed or sell meat rabbits. A healthy breeding pair will require separate living quarters so you can control the breeding.
Living Easter Gifts
Where will the animal be housed? Is this realistic? You’ll need to research topics like “what does a chicken coop need“. Have you looked into housing requirements for chicks, ducklings and rabbits? Often, the least expensive coops and hutches are not predator resistant.  The good news is that after buying baby chicks, the chicks will need to stay indoors until the weather warms up consistently. Keeping a brooder pen in your house or garage for the first few weeks will give you some time to obtain a sturdy, outdoor coop and run for the chickens.  This will be needed once they grow feathers and can stay warm without heat lights.
Can you afford the food, and care the animals require? Do you have answers to common questions like: What do your feed baby ducks for proper growth?
buying-baby-chicks
Learning how to raise baby chicks is a rewarding project for families and individuals. It can bring much joy along with farm fresh eggs.  Even keeping ducks in suburbia is possible and fun when some planning is used before bringing home ducklings.  Make a list of what you will need for your own flock.  When you visit the garden centers and farm stores this spring, you will be an informed shopper and bringing home the new fluffy family will be even more enjoyable.  Are you planning on buying baby chicks this season?
Janet writes about many homesteads and livestock related topics on her blog Timber Creek Farm. Her book, Chickens From Scratch, is available now.

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

Broad Breasted vs HeritageTurkeys?

Why are turkeys genetically modified?

https://science.howstuffworks.com/life/genetic/genetically-modified-turkey1.htm




Wild turkeys like these are the descendents of the birds pilgrims would've encountered. They haven't been tampered with genetically.
Wild turkeys like these are the descendents of the birds pilgrims would've encountered. They haven't been tampered with genetically.
Stephen J. Krasemann / Photographer's Choice /Getty Images
­When Ben Franklin suggested in 1784 that the turkey be the national bird of the United States, he couldn't have imagined the factory farms teeming with fat, dumb broad-breasted white turkeys.


Turkeys raised in today's factory farms are unrecognizable from the wild birds Franklin knew. Industry-bred birds have unusually large breasts, so disproportionate with the rest of their bodies that they often have trouble standing, walking and mating -- these turkeys rely on artificial insemination for reproduction. They begin life hatched in incubators, have their upper beaks and toenails clipped and spend their days and nights eating fortified corn in a barn full of hundreds of fellow turkeys. Their limited family tree has bred them to be dim-witted and disease-prone; they're given antibiotics to prevent a variety of ailments. Industry turkeys are abnormally fast growing, and by the time they're 12 weeks old, they're shipped off to the slaughterhouse.
­There is an alternative to factory breeding: heritage turkeys, which were nearly extinct as recently as the end of the 20th century. But in the 2006 U.S. turkey census, there were about 8,800 heritage turkeys -- a big jump from the 1,300 heritage turkeys in 1997 [source: Mapes]. They're making a comeback with the help of small enthusiast groups and the Slow Food movement, and you can buy them in some specia­lty markets around the country. Slow Food aficionados value knowing where the food they eat comes from, how it's raised, how it tastes and how it's linked to the community and the environment. And they'll tell you a heritage bird isn't in the same league as the frozen, bowling-ball shaped turkey in your local market's freezer. These birds have rich, gamey meat that doesn't need gravy to add flavor.
The American Poultry Association lists less than a dozen heritage turkey breeds that meet its Standard of Perfection, including the standard bronze, Beltsville small white, black, Bourbon red, Jersey buff, Narragansett, royal palm, slate, white Holland and white midget.
To be considered a heritage variety, the turkey needs to meet three criteria. First, it needs to mate naturally, and its genetic legacy must also be bred naturally. Second, it must live a long and productive life outdoors, which means it must be fit and self-reliant enough to endure whatever the environment throws its way. Unlike industry-bred birds, heritage turkeys can roost, run and fly. Hens (female turkeys) typically live for five to seven years while toms (male turkeys) live about three to five years [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy]. And lastly, it should grow at a slow rate. While broad-breasted white turkeys are bred for their ability to mature quickly, heritage turkeys are allowed to take their time -- the development of healthy skeletons, organs and muscles can take up to 28 weeks [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy].
But most Americans will be sticking to the easy-to-find broad-breasted white. So when you give thanks over your turkey this Thanksgiving, remember to thank selective breeding for the bounty of white meat of which you are about to partake.


Broad Breasted White Turkey


                                           
https://www.purelypoultry.com/broad-breasted-white-turkey-poults-p-462.html




Broad Breasted White Turkey poults are an excellent choice if you want to raise a turkey for meat. Turkeys sold in grocery stores are Broad Breasted White Turkeys.
Production

The Broad Breasted White Turkey is the breed raised by commercial turkey farmers in the US. It is the best choice for those who enjoy breast meat. These birds have shorter breast bones and legs than other breeds and are unable to reproduce naturally. Instead, they must be artificially inseminated. If you are interested in breeding turkeys, you should try heritage breeds instead.
History

Breeding the White Holland and the Broad Breasted Bronze produced the Broad Breasted White Turkey. It has become the dominant turkey on the market and is the one that most Americans are familiar with.
For a time, the Broad Breasted Bronze held the dominant position on the turkey market, but beginning in the 1960s, processors began to prefer the Broad Breasted Whites because they produced a cleaner looking carcass. The fact that their feathers are all white means that their pin feathers are not visible when the bird is dressed.
The large size of the Broad Breasted White Turkey has pros and cons associated with it. These birds have been bred to grow large; some of them exceed 50 lbs at full maturity. However, some people feel that taste and texture have been sacrificed for size. If you want to raise a bird that tastes similar to those you can purchase in the grocery store, this is the breed for you. If you are a bit more adventurous, you may want to experiment with one of our other breeds.
Colors

Broad Breasted White Turkeys' feathers are white. They have pink legs, a black beards, and red carnucling. Baby BB White turkey poults are yellow.
Status

The Broad Breasted White is the most common breed of turkey available.
Body Type

These are big birds. Broad Breasted Whites have been bred to provide a meaty carcass with more breast meat than any other turkey.
Weight

Hens weigh 14-20 pounds and Toms weigh an average of 30-40 pounds at 20-24 weeks, although they have been known to grow much larger.




Classification

American Poultry Association Class: Not Standardized

Livestock Conservancy Status: Of no concern

Broad Breasted Turkey Feed Conversions
Weeks of Age
Tom Weight
Hen Weight
Total Feed (Tom)
Total Feed (Hen)
2
0.9 lbs
0.8 lbs
1.2 lbs
1 lbs
4
2.8 lbs
2.4 lbs
4.4 lbs
3.6 lbs
6
6.2 lbs
5 lbs
10.3 lbs
8.1 lbs
8
10.6 lbs
8.4 lbs
19.1 lbs
14.6 lbs
10
15.7 lbs
12.1 lbs
30.5 lbs
22.9 lbs
12
21.2 lbs
15.9 lbs
44.3 lbs
32.6 lbs
14
26.8 lbs
19.6 lbs
60.2 lbs
43.7 lbs
16
32.5 lbs
23 lbs
77.9 lbs
55.8 lbs
18 
38 lbs
26.1 lbs
97.4 lbs
68.8 lbs
20
43.3 lbs
28.9 lbs
118.8 lbs
82.7 lbs
22
48.4 lbs
N/A
142.2 lbs
N/A
24
53.38 lbs
N/A
167.8 lbs
N/A
The above numbers are only averages and estimations.  Results may vary from flock to flock.


Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey


Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey Poults



The Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey is an excellent choice if you want to raise a turkey for meat. Due to years of being bred specifically for meat quality, these birds grow quickly and provide nice, plump carcass.
Production

For a short time, the Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey dominated the commercially-sold turkey market. Consumer appeal rules all, though, and over time, processors began to prefer the Broad Breasted White Turkey, saying it provided a cleaner looking carcass. Today, the Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey is raised mostly for small scale, seasonal purposes.
History

Until quite recently in American History, the Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey was the most desirable turkey for the table. The breed originated when European settlers bred the turkeys they brought to North America with the native turkeys they found here. The hybrid they produced was a superior animal, being more vigorous and bigger than the European birds but tamer than the North American natives.
The coppery coloring of these turkeys gave them their name, but they were not officially called Bronze Breasted Turkeys until the 1800s. Shortly thereafter, in 1874, the American Poultry Association officially recognized the Bronze turkey breed. Since that time, the breed has undergone dramatic changes, as commercial farmers began to introduce different strains to produce turkeys with broader breasts and shorter keels and that would grow faster.
Commercial farmers continued to refine the breed, improving the quality of the meat, particularly the breast meat. The changes have ended the Broad Breasted Bronze Turkeys' ability to mate naturally. Since the 1960s they have been artificially inseminated. If you are interested in breeding turkeys, you may be interested in looking at our heritage breeds.
Colors

In the case of the Broad Breasted Bronze Turkey, the name offers a clue as to the birds' color. This breed has predominately dark feathers, which have a coppery sheen. The copper color is from an inheritance from the breeds' wild ancestors.
Status

Because this breed must be artificially inseminated to reproduce, Broad Breasted Bronze turkeys are not bred by individuals. Instead, the majority of them are raised by commercial farmers on a seasonal basis. Some families will buy Broad Breasted Bronzes to raise for meat, but otherwise production is confined to the commercial realm.
Body Type

Broad Breasted Turkeys are compact meat birds and have been bred to have very large breasts.
Weight

Hens weigh 14-20 lbs. at 14-20 weeks and Toms weigh 30-40 lbs. at 20-24 weeks.