Winter Fun, Prevent Chicken Boredom

10 Winter Boredom Busters for Chickens

https://www.fresheggsdaily.com/2013/02/10-boredom-busters-for-chickens.html



Bored chickens are not happy chickens. Bored chickens tend to start pecking at each other and themselves, resulting in feather loss or worse.

Once a flock sees blood, it can whip the chickens into a frenzy and they will sometimes literally kill flock mates.... purely out of boredom and pecking order clashes.

Boredom can also lead to egg eating.  Read more HERE about that nasty habit.  I've never read anything to prove this next one, but I also think that boredom can result in more broodies being broody longer.

I mean, if there's nothing going on outside and no outdoor 'action' they feel left out of, why NOT just sit in a nesting  box all day long?

                  

Don't let this happen to your girls. It is the chicken equivalent of human cabin fever. But it's not 'normal' behavior and is easily prevented with proper flock management.

I have never had issues with pecking between our hens, other than the occasional rap on the head that says 'hey, remember your place in the pecking order!'

Boredom is more prevalent in the winter when there aren't weeds and grass to munch on, bugs to eat, butterflies to chase or dirt to bathe in and sun themselves.

Boredom pecking is more likely to happen if your coop and run are too small and the chickens don't have adequate space, so don't be stingy, let those girls have as large a run as possible, and try not to keepthem confined to their coop except on the most frigid, blizzard-y days.

Of course treats help keep chickens occupied (read HERE for some creative treat ideas), but too many treats aren't good for them, so here are some non-food ideas for keeping your chickens busy during the long, cold winter months.

1.  Outside Roosts, Ladders, Perches and Swings

Perching actually is an 'official' chicken activity, listed in The Handbook of Official Chicken Activities (kidding, but you get the idea!).

Chickens LOVE to hop up on things and get a 'bird's eye' view. Especially when it's muddy or snowy, but really any time, a chicken will generally seek high ground if possible.

Outdoor roosts can keep them occupied, if not for hours, for at least a little while!

You can use boards, branches, ladders, any variety of things to create a multi-leveled chicken jungle gym of sorts. Or you can get really ambitious and make your girls a swing out of a log.

2.  Stumps to Stand On

Next time you cut a tree down or lose one in a storm, cut it into a few stumps of different lengths. Lined up along the run fencing, this is a favorite area for our chickens to stand and watch the world by by.

An added bonus, if you move the stumps periodically or turn them onto their other end, the chickens will have great fun finding the bugs the collect.        

3.  Piles of Leaves, Straw or Hay

Try putting a pile of leaves, pine needles or even just dirt (we call it worm dirt around here!) or a bale of straw or hay in the run and see how long it takes for it to be leveled.

Chickens HATE piles!  They will scratch and kick whatever you give them until the pile is no more.

Great fun for the afternoon!

4.  Hang a Mirror 

Have you ever tried putting a mirror in your coop or run (here's where I got mine)?

Chickens, being the preeners that they are, have a great time looking at themselves in the mirror.

Trust me on this one.

It's well worth a trip to Goodwill to pick up a cheap mirror. Just be sure it's well secured so it can't be knocked over as the girls shove each other aside to check themselves out.

(One note: if you have a rooster, you might want to pass on the mirror - most roosters wouldn't take kindly to another roo in their flock!   

5.  Anything New and Different

Don't have a mirror or any stumps? No worries. Just find SOMETHING new to put in the run.  A rake, a wooden box, anything.

The chickens will naturally come over to investigate.

6. Sheltered Dust Bath Area

Dust bathing is not only a great way for the chickens to spend an afternoon, but also a very important way that they keep parasites at bay.

If the chickens' regular bath area is covered in snow or mud, try setting up a bath in a sheltered area for them, even in a large tub or kiddie pool that you can put out for them on nice days.

7.  Supervised Free Range

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Even when there's snow on the ground and it's freezing cold out, wrap yourself up in your long johns, coat and mittens and head outside to supervise some free range time.

The chickens will appreciate being able to stretch their legs, as long as there are some bare patches on the ground where they don't have to walk in the dreaded white stuff!

Fresh air is good for you both! Just be super vigilant because predators are hungry and food sources are scarce this time of year.

8.  Enlarge your Run

Rethink your run area. Maybe you DON'T need that much lawn, maybe you COULD extend the fencing a bit more off to one side.

Give your chickens the largest area to roam that you possibly can so they have enough space to get away for some 'me' time once in awhile.

9.  Spend More Time With Them

Spending time with your chickens is so beneficial in so many ways for you both. Not only do I find it therapeutic, but it gives me time to give them all a good health checkup.

The more handing of them that you do, the easier it will be to catch and hold one when you NEED to due to illness or injury.

Also time spent with your chickens helps you understand the flock dynamic a bit better, identify any bullies (although with proper management bullies should never be a problem) and is just downright relaxing!

It's easy in the summer to spend time outdoors, but make it a point to bundle up and head to the coop for awhile each day all through the winter as well.

10.  Pony Rides



~photoshop magic courtesy Kate at Farmhouse38~

When all else fails, we resort to pony rides! The chickens and horses both enjoy getting out and getting a bit of exercise.

Okay, just kidding on the pony rides ! But kudos to Kate from Farmhouse38 and her photoshop magic for making this photo totally believable, right?

Okay, so how about ...

10.  Seed and Suet Treats or a Lettuce Pinata 

Homemade or commercial seed blocks or suet cakes cakes can help relieve winter boredom and also provide some extra nutrition and energy on cold days.

How about a Seed and Nut Wreath (pictured above)....

...or some Suet Cakes

Make a Flock Block Knockoff 

Hang treats in baskets for your chickens.

Winter crops such as kale, collards, cabbage and other leafy greens are often on sale through the winter and make a nutritious, fun treat.

We're counting down the days until spring...but at least we know that bored chickens aren't a problem here - where we work hard at keeping our chickens too busy to get bored !

Preparing your coop for cooler weather

Cold weather chickens – 8 things NOT to do to in winter
https://blog.mypetchicken.com/2012/11/16/cold-weather-chickens-8-things-not-to-do/    

How to prepare your chickens for winter isn’t especially intuitive. In fact, many people may take steps that can actually make things more difficult for their flock rather than helping them to become cold weather chickens!  Choosing cold hardy breeds (if you live in an area of cold winters) is certainly an important first step! But presuming you’ve already made good breed choices, you’ll also want to know what NOT to do for your cold weather chickens.

Cold weather chickens – 8 things NOT to do to in winter

1. Don’t keep your chickens closed up in their coop when it’s cold.

We like to go outside, even in the winter!

Good cold weather chickens can be allowed to decide when they want to stay in or come out. You might think that your chickens won’t want to go outside in the snow, and sometimes that’s true. Some of your chickens will hate it, and will stay inside most of the day, but others won’t mind it at all.
The only time I keep the coop door closed during the day is when the snow is too deep for my cold weather chickens to walk in, or when it’s just so bitter and windy I know no one will come out. (And even then, I sometimes open the door just in case).

Poor Prissy, my Rhode Island Red, sometimes comes outside and only afterwards realizes she doesn’t want to be out in the snow! Here she is having flown to an old chair so she doesn’t have to walk in it, anymore.

2. Don’t tightly insulate your coop.

I know that seems strange, but it’s true–tightly insulated coops can cause more harm than good. If your coop is tightly insulated, not only will it retain heat, it will also retain moisture… and retaining moisture in the coop is very, very bad.
Chickens create a lot of moisture from their respirations. A lot of moisture also evaporates from their droppings. And in winter, they’ll be spending more time inside, even if just because of the longer winter nights! More droppings build up—and more moisture. And the problem is that lot of moisture in the air can condense, freeze, and contribute to frostbite. All that humidity also increases the risk of unhealthy conditions in the coop leading to respiratory ailments and mold-related illnesses. Plus, poor ventilation can also cause ammonia gas to build up inside your coop, which is damaging to your chickens’ lungs.
You can have some insulation in cold areas, but remember that cold weather chickens need a coop to be well ventilated, to avoid moisture build-up, but not drafty.

3. Don’t heat your coop.

This is another piece of advice that seems completely counter-intuitive…  however it’s good advice for a number of reasons.
Chickens adapt to lower temperatures over time. If the coop is heated, they’ll never become real cold weather chickens; they’ll never get used to the cold winter temperatures outside. Then, if you lose power and their heat goes out, the sudden sharp drop in temperatures with no time to acclimate means you could lose your whole flock in one terrible, fell swoop.
Even if it doesn’t come to that, if your chickens are hesitant to spend time outside, they will spend even more time inside the coop making the air wet and breathing the unhealthy, moist air. Finally, heating the coop is often a fire hazard. Remember, chicken coops are generally pretty dusty places, and we hear stories every year from people who have lost their coops—and their flock—to chicken coop fires.
I heat my coop during sudden, precipitous drops in temperature, just to help ease the transition for my cold weather chickens. I also may heat my coop when the temperatures are below zero for extended periods. If you live in an area where you have to heat your coop, consider getting a backup generator so you don’t lose birds during a loss of power.

4. Don’t forget to gather eggs more often than usual.

If you have cold weather chickens, some may continue to lay during the winter, and the eggs could freeze. While this doesn’t really hurt them, exactly, it IS a risk for bacterial contamination. What happens is that the frozen egg contents expand, and can create tiny hairline cracks in the shell you might not see with the naked eye. The cracks can let bacteria into the shell. Of course, at cold temperatures, the bacteria doesn’t grow very quickly, but nonetheless, keeping cracked eggs is just not a good idea.
Plus, there’s nothing like opening your refrigerator to find that an egg has thawed and seeped out all over everything—ugh, what a mess!

If I find an egg with a hairline crack, I don’t save it. Instead, I use it right away by cooking up scrambled eggs for the girls, who enjoy some warm treats on a cold day! (It sometimes takes a while to thaw before I’m able to scramble them, though…)

5. Don’t let your water freeze.

Keeping fresh, unfrozen water for your flock in the winter can be a challenge. There are always the heated waterers, but—I admit it—I don’t care for these very much. (There are people here at My Pet Chicken who swear by them, though, and they may work for you just fine.)
Personally, I don’t like the fire risk, although they are much safer than as trying to heat the coop. I’ve also found them to be generally harder to use and clean than regular waterers. One heated waterer I had filled itself so close to the rim that it needed to be EXACTLY level so it wouldn’t simply pour its contents out on the floor. Another worked well, except for the fact that the chickens kept unplugging it. A third functioned nicely in reasonably mild cold weather, but in very bitter cold, the top of the reservoir would freeze, so that the bottom heated portion where the chickens were meant to drink from would run completely dry.
I haven’t found a heated waterer that works very well for me and my cold weather chickens. Instead, I just use multiple waterers. In the morning, I bring in a fresh waterer, and bring in the waterer that was in the coop overnight, and is now frozen. By the time that one is thawed, the other one is nearly frozen, so I switch them out. It requires a lot of walking and carrying, but my preference is to do it that way rather than use expensive heated waterers for my flock.

6. Don’t put off coop cleaning.

Because your cold weather chickens will be spending more time inside and creating more droppings inside as a result, the coop will need cleaning more often. For myself, I like to use the deep litter method for managing my coop rather than frequent cleanings, but even doing that, new bedding needs to be added more frequently in the winter to make sure everything stays dry and cozy.

7. Don’t let your birds get too bored.

If they have a very small coop and run, there may not be a whole lot to entertain your flock like there is during warmer months. When snow is on the ground, there will be little or no sun bathing. With the ground frozen, dust bathing is unlikely. There won’t be lots of bugs to catch or greens to forage. Bored birds may become snippy or even aggressive with one another if there isn’t anything to think about or do other than reinforce the pecking order over and over again.
Alleviate some of the boredom for your cold weather chickens by adding treats to their area. For instance, hang a head of cabbage in your coop for your girls to peck at. As they peck, it swings, making it more difficult to eat immediately, and keeping them entertained for hours. My chickens, seemingly unlike any other chickens in the world, don’t care for cabbage. Still, there are other treats that work well for entertainment… for example, suet cakes. I prefer to use something high protein, like the Treat Square Cake designed for chickens and other domestic poultry. In winter, something with high fat (including scratch or cracked corn) gives them the extra calories they need to help stay warm. You can also simply scatter some scratch inside the run for them to forage for. That’ll keep them entertained, too.

8. Don’t skimp on the grit.

Chickens usually pick up grit naturally from small pebbles they ingest while foraging around, scratching through the dirt in search of morsels to eat. The grit acts like “teeth” to help their gizzard “chew” their food. In winter, however, the ground may be frozen and too hard for a bird to dislodge any pieces to pick up grit naturally. In this case, it’s wise to make sure your birds have plenty of supplemental grit to help them digest their feed. Your flock will thank you for providing this digestive assistance on those cold winter days!

Raising Chicken in the Fall

Raising Chickens In The Fall

(Woodville Ace does not sell chicks in the fall,

special orders can be made with a min order of 25 chicks.)

Posted by Melissa Caughey / Mon, Aug 14, 2017
https://info.mannapro.com/homestead/raising-chickens-in-the-fall

               

Each year, the trend of backyard chickens continues to climb and it is no surprise that hatcheries are starting to meet the demands of those keeping chickens. Ordering little ones is no longer only a springtime tradition. Hatcheries are now meeting the desires of chick fever with ordering available through the summer and even into the fall and winter. There are some benefits to ordering them later in the season. Baby chicks grow quickly, so those living in milder fall and winter climates in the southern portion of the United States can easily be raising chickens even over the winter.

Ready for Fall Molt?

FALL MOLTING
 

www.farmingmybackyard.com

It looked like chicken carnage in the coop.  There were feathers everywhere, and my heart sunk.  I quickly did head count.  Everyone was present and accounted for, thank goodness!  Now to figure out whose feathers were everywhere, and why.  A little more investigation gave me the answer: the chickens were molting.

Want more details on how to keep your backyard flock at their healthiest in one easy to read source?  Check out our book Backyard Chickens: How To Have A Happy Flock!

The first time my hens started molting I started freaking out.  I thought they were sick or hurt or something.

Thankfully molting is perfectly normal and all they really need is extra protein added in their diet.

Unfortunately, while molting they stop laying.

(Sarah in the comments kindly detailed that they don’t stop laying BECAUSE they are molting but rather it’s two separate processes.  Thanks Sarah!)

Why Are Your Chickens Molting?

Usually adult hens of around eighteen months old begin to molt in the fall when the number of daylight hours decreases.

But stress, or withholding feed or water can trigger a molt at other times as well, and they also molt after being broody, (which is a sort of nature imposed withholding of food, I suppose).

If you use a lamp in your coop to extend daylight hours, Oregon State Extension suggests leaving it off for six weeks during the fall or winter will help your birds completely finish a molt and start laying again at top production.

Just  be careful with your timing so that you don’t leave your birds without protection if they go through a hard molt in extra chilly weather!

How long will this take?

If you raised your birds from chicks you may have noticed them molting when they lose their downy feathers in that awkward gangly stage around 4 weeks.

They have another molt around sexual maturity at about 20 weeks, although, that can vary depending on the breed.

These molts are not quite as dramatic as the annual molts, which can take anywhere from 2-6 months.

Chickens molting always progresses in the same order from the head, then down the neck, the body, wings, and lastly the tail.

Your chicken should actually never be completely bald when molting because the new feathers emerging is what pushes out the old feathers.

If your bird has bald spots, especially near the vent that’s NOT molting, it’s something else like mites.

Chickens do their best to prevent mites by dust bathing, but mites can be treated naturally.  Here’s more information on that from The Frugal Chicken.

Another cause of bald spots could be the birds picking on each other.  That’s a symptom of stress in our flock that needs to be dealt with immediately by increasing their space and quality of life.

You can actually tell by looking at the flight feathers how long your bird has been molting and how much longer it will take.

If you have a bird that starts molting early, and drops only one flight feather at a time it will take longer to complete her molt.

If you have a bird that starts her molt later. then loses multiple feathers at a time she will finish faster) and get back to laying breakfast faster as well).

What Should You Do?

You can help out your chickens during their molt by providing them with high quality protein foods.  Feathers are made of protein, so it takes a lot of it for them to manufacture new ones.

Some birds may even be able to continue laying if they are getting enough nutrients, although not all will do so.

Drop low protein snacks and filler foods, and up the quantity of protein.

Some good ideas are mealworms, black oil sunflower seeds, scrambled eggs, cat food, dairy products like yogurt, and tuna or other fish.

The newly growing feather are very sensitive.  They emerge through a shaft that can bleed quite profusely if damaged.

Try not to handle your birds as much as possible.  Make sure to be very gentle when you must pick them up.

It’s also a good idea to limit their stress as much as possible.  Molting time is not a good time to introduce new flock members or move them to a new home.  Let them regain their dignity first!

5 Ways To Help Your Molting Chickens

Switch to the highest protein food available at your feed store.

Add black oil sunflower seeds to their feed.

Add heat to the coop if it’s cold outside.

Keep stress down

Don’t touch them!

I recently polled my Facebook followers on their favorite way to help their molting chickens and got some great suggestions!  William uses catfish food to boost the protein in his flock.  Nikki recommends boosting their fat levels ahead of time.  This helps them maintain enough preening oil and replace their old feathers quickly.  Debbie recommends a 20 % protein feed based on fish meal.





And it’s a great idea to take molting time to do a quick health check of all your birds.  This gives you a chance to visually see potential problems you may not have otherwise caught.  Just make sure to handle them very carefully, so as to not disturb the growing feathers.
Here are some chicken health related posts to help you do a quick exam and handle potential issues. 

The first time your hens molt it can be a surprise.  But once you know when chickens molt and how to help them through it, you don’t need to worry!

WORMING YOUR CHICKENS

Worming Chickens

Kassandra Smith

Senior Editor • Backyard Chicken Coops

16 September 2014

https://www.backyardchickencoops.com.au/blogs/learning-centre/worming-chickens

Preventing worms in your animals is the unfortunate but necessary job of all pet owners. Looking after your poultry pals is the same drill as any other pet - prevention is the best cure! There are products, natural and medicinal, that you can give to your chickens to prevent worms or kill current ones.
So let’s go inside the not altogether lovely but definitely necessary topic of worming your chickens- yay!
What are worms?
There are a number of different kinds of worms - here are some common ones that are known to affect poultry animals:

• Hair worm - can be found in the oesophagus, intestine, stomach, and the crop.
• Roundworm - affects the digestive system.
• Gizzard worm - affects the gizzard- primarily an issue in geese.
• Gapeworm - affects the trachea and lungs.
• Caecal worm - causes blackhead organisms to occur- particularly potent to turkeys.

 


How do chickens get worms?
Chickens often pick up worms as a result of foraging. Generally, worms are transmitted through droppings, as they live in the droppings of an infected bird. These worms will then stay on the ground until they are picked up by another chicken that’s foraging around for food. The types of worms that are commonly transmitted in this way are roundworms, gizzard worms, hair worms and caecal worms.
The birds can also pick up worms indirectly, through eating creepy crawlies such as earthworms, snails and slugs. This happens because the crawlies the chickens snack on have eaten the worms excreted by another infected bird. Hair worms, gape worms and tapeworms can be transmitted through this method.
What are some signs my chickens might have worms?
There are a number of symptoms that chickens will exhibit if they’re affected by worms - none of them are particularly pleasant, but are important to identify.

• Weight loss or weight gain
• Eating more feed than usual
• Gasping for breath (this will be the result of gapeworms blocking the airway)

How do I treat worms?
There are a number of different products available for the treatment of worms.
- Chicken wormers:
You can buy specially made chicken wormers from any major pet stores or online. It generally comes in liquid, tablet or syrup form, and should be added to your chickens water once every three months. You can generally administer orally as well, but might be easier just popping it into the water! How much you add will depend on your flock size, but there should be guidelines on the box.
The wormers generally cater for the prevention of ALL types of worms, rather than just one specific type.
Some common worming brands (in Australia) include:

• AristoPet Wormenda Poultry Wormer
• MavLab Avitrol Bird Wormer Syrup (tablet form also available)
• Skyes Big Pig and Poultry Wormer
• Vetsense Kilverm Pig and Poultry Wormer

- Natural Remedies:

• Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth is often added into chickens feed because it acts as a natural dewormer. It works by dehydrating the parasites and worms that exist internally. In terms of its effectiveness, the jury still seems to be out on whether it will DEFINITELY kill all parasites, however, feeding your chickens diatomaceous earth is actually great to give them egg-stra trace minerals - so is beneficial regardless.

• Food

Apple Cider Vinegar is a marvellous thing to feed your chickens - it has many great health benefits as its packed with vitamin and mineral goodness, so you should be adding it to your chicken’s water anyway!
In terms of its worming capabilities, Apple Cider Vinegar acts as a mild antiseptic and also a mild antibiotic, so it will kill some bacteria and germs, and deter worms from making a home in your chickens. Again, it’s not a 100% guaranteed treatment, but still beneficial to feed to your chickens.
Garlic is another natural food substance that is known to help keep worms at bay, and makes your chicken’s internals a less attractive place for parasites to settle.  Adding some ground up garlic into your chicken’s feed is a great way to get your chickens to eat it, and you can also pop some slightly crushed cloves into their water. Again, garlic is just great to give to your chickens regardless, as it helps their respiratory system and boosts their immune system.
In terms of what the most effective methods for worming your chickens is, your safest bet is to go with a proper poultry wormer and apply that every three months as a preventative measure as you’d do with any other pet - it’s much better to stop worms rather than cure them!

Deworming the Flock: What You Need to Know

 https://www.communitychickens.com/worming-flock-need-know/    
Posted by Melissa Caughey on October 13, 2014 Visit Tilly's Nest

by Melissa Caughey of Tilly’s Nest
What a hot topic this always seems to be across the poultry world and backyard chicken keepers. Some folks, will tell you that they never deworm their flocks. Others, will tell you that they religiously deworm their flock every six months. Some use traditional deworming products while others prefer natural preventatives. I thought today,  I’d spend a little time chatting with you about worms.

Photo Credit: Chickens exploring the garden.

However, before we blast off into this chat about worms remember, when making any sorts of chicken keeping decisions please:
1. Do your research.
2. There are lots of people with strong opinions out there. Do what works for you and your flock. Only you and your vet can make the right decision.
3. Explore all of your options.
There are a few different types of worms that can affect chickens in different ways and live in different places along their gastrointestional tracts. The more common worms that chicken keepers deal with are tape worms, round worms, hair worms, gape worms, and caecal worms. Chickens that have worms can show a decrease in egg laying, weight loss, diarrhea, pale egg yolks, coughing or rasping, head shaking,  lethargy, and even death.
Sometimes worm infestations are visible to the naked eye. Other times, it is helpful to seek out assistance from a local veterinarian that can run a relatively inexpensive test to detect worms invisible to the naked eye. All vets are capable of running this test.

Image Source: Tape Worm (Photo by Ondrej Zichah)

Having your flock tested for worms serves four purposes:
1. Can confirm a positive diagnosis.
2. Can tell you what types of worms you are treating.
3. Prevents unnecessary use of medications, which stresses the flock.
4. Retest after you have treated your flock for worms to be sure the treatment was effective.
Once the presence of worms in your flock is confirmed, it is best to treat the entire flock. It is important to remember that worms typically have a life cycle from 2 to 8 days. This means that in most cases, your flock will sometimes require two courses of medication. There are quite a few commercial products available on the market today for deworming. It is wonderful that chicken keepers have options. Many of those options are available “over the counter”. When selecting a dewormer for your flock, you will need to know what type of worm(s) your chickens have. Different deworming products target different types of worms. Deworming is stressful on chickens, so avoid deworming under six weeks of age, during the winter, or during the fall molt. Please note that the below medications are those available at time of this publication (October 2014) and are subject to change.  Prior to treating your flock, please check for updated information and always read the package insert. Here are some more tips when the need for medicating your flock arises.


You ask, what is an egg withdrawal period? This means that during the medication treatment all eggs need to be thrown away. They cannot be composted, fed back to the flock, or eaten. After the medication, the package insert will tell you when you can resume eating eggs. The day after the medication is finished, is the first day of egg withdrawal. This can go on for weeks after the last dose of medication. The egg withdrawal period is there to protect you, the consumer. You do not want to inadvertently ingest the medication that your flock was on. It can linger in the eggs and meat of the birds.

Flubenvet 1% safe for use in egg laying hens, withdrawal period only for meatbirds, no egg withdrawal period

Verm-X no egg withdrawal period

Piperazine (Wazine 17)– packaging advises against use in egg laying hens, OK in meat birds with a withdrawal period

Fenbendazole (Panacur)– safe for use in egg laying hens with a withdrawal period. (3CC PER ONE GALLON WATER, AST)

(Hygromycin B) Rooster Booster Triple Action Wormer– no withdrawal period

 As you do your research you will discover that there are some natural products shown to have some effect on worms. The most common being pumpkin seeds, garlic, and food grade diatomaceous earth. I have reviewed the research and the published studies show that these three dietary supplements do reduce the fecal egg count to some degree. However, I would caution anyone to rely solely on these methods alone to deworm the flock. These supplements should probably be thought of as more of preventatives than actual treatment.

Photo Credit: Depending on the wormer directions,  wormers are either added to the feed or the water.

Lastly, here are some more tips to prevent the spread of worms and to help keep their populations at bay.
1. Sunlight helps to kill the worm eggs.

2. Keep a dry environment.

3. Tidy up the coop and run from chicken poop on a regular basis.

4. Always quarantine new additions to the flock for 4 weeks and they should be checked for worms.

5. Keep wild birds out of the chickens’ living area.

6. Avoid overcrowding.

6. Consider adding pumpkin seeds (also squash seeds, cucumber seeds), food grade diatmaceous earth, and garlic to your flock’s diet.

For more information on deworming your flock, please visit my website.

Doses used in studies:

2% of the feed ratio for food grade diatomaceous earth

Garlic 3% of the  feed ratio garlic powder (not garlic salt)

90+ degrees with high humidity and my chickens aren't laying

Top 8 Tips for Keeping Your Backyard Chickens Cool in the Summer

Posted by Laura Hepburn / Wed, May 29, 2013 @ 11:06 AM

 https://info.mannapro.com/homestead/bid/148206/top-8-tips-for-keeping-your-backyard-chickens-cool-in-the-summer               

Well Memorial Day has come and gone and the summer heat is here to stay.  With that in mind, it is important to maintain a cool environment for your flock.  All across the country, temperatures for mid-summer can reach 90+ degrees with high humidity.  Although chickens are very adaptable to weather changes, they usually perform their best around 75 degrees and below.  Consistently high summer temperatures can cause your chickens to suffer from heat stress, overheating, or even stop their egg laying process.  For heavier breeds, extreme heat can even cause death.  Thankfully, there are some things that you can do to help combat the high summer temperatures.

Taming an agressive rooster

https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/aggressive-roosters/


We constantly hear of roosters that are mean to the hens and their keepers. Today we are going to give you a few tips on how to make a rooster ‘Mr. Nice Guy’.
That means you’re going to learn how to tame your aggressive rooster!
It will take some time and patience, so have a good stockpile of both.
We have had a few roosters and the majority of them haven’t been any trouble at all. They have been respectful of people, good to the ladies and rarely requiring any ‘behavior training’. There was one rooster though, Fred, who resisted all efforts at been trained. He flew at my partner one time too many – you can’t win them all.
Please remember that these ideas may not work with your particular bird – use common sense with these ideas, the plan is not to get hurt.
Below I’m going to share with you why roosters can become aggressive, before I share with you my rooster training program!

From Chick to Aggressive Rooster

When the chicks are small, although the boys may be a little stand offish, they can be held, cuddled, handfed and cosseted.

This is a great time to lay the foundation of respect and dominance to your little roosters. You may think it’s cute if he pecks at you – it’s not. He is trying already to be the boss.

Pick him up, especially in front of the hens, talk to him, feed him from your hand if he will and then put him down.
Somewhere between 16-20 weeks, hormones can upend this idyllic period. Suddenly he is a rooster full of testosterone and needs to defend his territory and his flock, interlopers beware – and that can mean you!
It is not personal – it’s just the way roosters are wired and just like a human teenager, he is testing the limits. If you have raised the rooster from a chick, it is usually easier to manage them and teach the rules as they go along.
If you have been given or acquired a rooster, it can be that much more difficult. A lot will depend on how the bird was raised and of course, the breed.

Why Do Roosters Attack?

In the wild, he would defend his flock against threats from predators and other roosters that were looking for some hens to mate with.

His responsibility is to care for the flock and its’ needs and that includes mating with as many hens as he can manage to ensure the success of the flock.

You will need to bear in mind, that aggressive behavior will likely increase in the spring-time because it is the start of the mating season.
We are just going to mention some terms here that you may have heard but aren’t sure of:

• Flogging – the rooster will fly at you and try to beat you with his wings and rake you with the spurs.
• Spurring – as the name suggests, jumping at you and trying to rake you.
• Chasing – he may try this with children more. Chasing you away from the flock. He will stop when he thinks you are no longer a threat.
• Aggressive pecking – not cute, it hurts. Do not tolerate even at the chick stage.

Watch for the ‘Moves’
There are certain signs that a rooster is contemplating an attack. We are going to share them here but be aware that the rooster is the master of the sneak attack!
He will lower his head while looking at you, he may start a little rooster dance – attack is imminent, be ready. Your rooster might try to bring you presents – very sweet, but he only does this for subordinate hens, beware.
The silent stealthy running up behind you, stopping and staring at you. A challenge has been issued, stand your ground, stare back.

How to Train Your Rooster to Be ‘Nice’

Ideas on training roosters are many, some good and bad and plenty of dubious ideas abound on the internet.
I have read of roosters being booted around the yard, having their spurs cut off and other little horrors visited upon them – this is abuse, please do not do this to your roosters. If you feel the need to cull him, please do so in a humane way.
When moving around your flock, your movements should be deliberate and fairly slow paced. Moving quickly unsettles them, putting them on edge – more so the rooster.
Animals think rationally – they cannot afford to make the same mistake twice – it might get them killed.
Remember these key points:

• You are the boss – he needs to learn this. You are not going to take away his purpose in life (mating, protection), but you will not tolerate challenges to your position of alpha flock member.
• Be prepared – just like the Boy Scouts… be prepared for him to challenge you at any time. This way you won’t be taken by surprise.
• Respect him – he has a job to do.
• Space – don’t crowd him, give him space. The only time to move into his space is if he looks like he might be thinking about attacking you.
• Carry a deterrent – deterrents are a great tool. Once the rooster has seen the stick or bottle in action, he will not want to repeat the exercise.

Remember each person who tends to the flock and deals with the rooster will have to follow your lead, no variations in how you treat him. If you give confusing signals he will be unsettled and may read ‘attack’ into a situation where no attack is intended.

Running Them Down

Some folks recommend that you ‘run them down’ – that is walk right through them without stopping. The idea is to get the rooster to move – he may interpret this as an attack and possibly counterattack – not a good thing.
Take one large step into his space while staring him down. He should back up, start fidgeting and he will look towards the ground. You won – walk away slowly.


Do not be afraid – this is a hard one for many folks. After all, no-one likes to be flogged by a rooster! Fear is a weakness in the animal kingdom and will be exploited to the full.
Even if you are frightened, do not run or move away from him – he needs to move first.
Don’t back off- if he starts up with you, don’t move away. If he drops his wings and spreads them slightly ready for attack – do the same. Spread your arms, stare directly at him and take a step into his space. If he is smart he will back off.
At this point, some folks will pick him up and walk around for 10-15 minutes to re-affirm who is the boss.
Do not hurt him – I cannot overemphasize this. Yes, you can control an animal by fear, but it doesn’t make them respect you, in fact in can make them meaner. If you can get him to respect you and your position as alpha, attack is much less likely.
I have read of people turning the rooster upside down and walking around the garden with him like that. This is dangerous for the rooster – because of the anatomy of a chicken, it is possible to cause the air sacs to collapse and have him suffocate – especially if he has just eaten. Please don’t do this.
It is important that you remain calm, quiet and assertive during your interactions with your rooster. Consistency with your interactions is also important. Wear as much protective clothing as you think you may need, long boots are recommended and a long sleeve shirt too.
Be warned though – it doesn’t work on every rooster, but at least you will know you have tried to teach him some manners!

Summary

Much of your success (or failure) will depend on things out of your control such as genetics.
To put things in perspective just remember that roosters were not born to be ‘lap pets’ – it is against their natural behavior.
When you buy your chicks or adult fowl, ask if there are any aggressive tendencies in the flock. Breeds to be cautious of are Old English Game, American Game, Oriental Game, Aseel, Shamo, Sumatra and Malay.
Of course, just because the breed is considered non-aggressive, it doesn’t always follow that the particular birds you have will stay true to type. Chickens are individuals, so personality can vary greatly.
Children should always be kept away from roosters unless a responsible adult is there to supervise.
Lastly, please remember your dominance can be kind; there is no need to be mean or harsh with your 7lb. rooster. Things such as treats, hand feeding, quiet talking and picking him up can help to establish your relationship with him.
Even if he does not accept these things from you, you can re-inforce your ‘alpha’ dominance without resorting to cruel methods.
Working with your rooster will take time and effort on your behalf, if you cannot devote these two things, think about re-homing or culling the bird.
He will likely never be a cuddly fellow, but that is not the aim. He needs to be a defender of the flock but subordinate to you. He may need reinforcement of the idea periodically, but in general you should both be respectful of the others space.
We hope you are successful with your rooster’s training program!