Feather loss
Moulting,
Pecking and Feather Damage
Oh my! chickens are losing their feathers! What is
going on?
Relax this
is natural, and it happens from time to time and there are reasons for it. So before
you start looking online for little clothes or what some people call chicken
aprons look for the cause first. Just like we shed our hair and horses and dogs
their coats, chickens shed feathers or something is eating at them.
First look
to see if they are Moulting, you
will walk into the pen one day and it is full of feathers. Usually most if not
all your chickens of the same age will moult at the same time. Something triggers
them to start, and if is in the Fall, they will slow down or stop laying for a
few months as well. It is a natural annual process where your chickens replace
their entire compliment of feathers over a few weeks. In a moult you will see
new feathers beginning to appear.
Stress such as extreme heat, water
deprivation, severe storms, a scary predator lurking around or illness can induce moulting.Pecking by other chickens usually around the vent or on the back is usually caused by stress, boredom or protein deficiency. Sometimes you have a pecking order going on and if they don’t work it out you may need to separate the pecked chicken or the pecker for a while.
Roosters can damage feathers on a hens back during mating. There is an apron used to put over their back to protect them, or you can make your own. This is natural and the feathers will grow back after the breeding season slows down and your rooster matures.
Mite or lice infestation are pretty common reasons for your
chickens to loose feathers. The whole flock needs to be treated as well as the
pen. Even if you don’t actually see the mites or lice, I recommend treating
anyway, they are very hard to detect.
What to look out for:
• pecking one another and pulling feathers
•bald batches around the head, back
or vent
•feather eating, sucking on feathers
•a rooster excessively mating with
one hen causing bald patches
Treatments
Moulting
Give additional
protein or vitamins when new feathers are coming in, (feathers are more than
80% protein). Administer in drinking water for up to 5 days, with fresh
solution made up daily. Use a feed additive or feed specifically designed for
feathers.
Plucking or pecking
Feed a
balanced diet; feed a good quality layer pellet or crumbles. Provide additional
protein to the diet via the drinking water. Separate if needed until the
feathers come back. Give them something to keep them busy if contained or free
range when possiable.
Vent pecking
Vent pecking
can lead to the offender causing severe blood loss and death. This type of pecking starts out of curiosity
and is non aggressive, however chickens like to peck at red objects. When birds lay, their vents are often swollen
and red for a few hours after laying. This
causes other chickens to begin pecking.
Vent pecking
can be avoided by darkening the coop so the red does not appear as
vibrant. The light intensity in the
chicken house should not be brighter than the minimum level at which a
newspaper can be read. Painting the windows can reduce the light level too. We
would also recommend not letting the birds out until after 10am. The chickens should have laid by this time
and their vents will have returned to normal.
Aggressive pecking
Initially
birds can develop feather sucking or pulling due to boredom. The main reasons
for this are:
•lack of
space
•unsuitable
environments
•being shut
in for long periods
•Bullying
from birds higher up the pecking order
Things to know about feather picking
A patch of
feathers in a certain area will usually be targeted. If the bird draws blood or damages the skin
then it will act as an attractant to other birds.
Aggressive
pecking is instigated by dominant birds asserting their authority. It is often
directed at the victim’s head and often consists of one hard peck, the victim
retreats and so the natural order is resumed. Often this is a one off peck and
isn’t a real problem. However, this can
get out of hand and eventually cause death and cannibalism in extreme
circumstances.
Pecking can
become a problem when new birds are introduced to a flock; try putting the new
birds in a cage within the coop. The
other chickens can see you new introductions but not peck. After a few days they can be let in together.
Alternatively, add new chickens at night, carefully placing them on the
perch. Usually all the birds settle down
with only minor upsets.
Pecking one
another and pulling feathers. Chickens need specific levels of protein made up
of a combination of amino acids and it is imperative these are met otherwise
they will seek protein from elsewhere – the feathers! Chickens will pick them
up off the ground and eat them, this leads to the chickens plucking them out of
themselves or their flock mates.
Feathers are
made up of 80% protein so they need additional protein during the regrowth
phase. Ensure you feed a good quality ration to your poultry and do not make up
your own ration or feed excessive corn and snacks, as it can lead to
deficiencies and obesity. Low salt can also cause a similar problem.
Prevention
Prevention
is always better than a cure; distractions such as flock blocks, hanging up
fresh greens, nailing up a piece of swede cut in half to play with. Or by
giving the chickens plenty of area to range and forage will all help.
Chicken Vet
Anti Peck Spray can be sprayed on the affected areas of pecked birds for 7 days
as this has an unpleasant taste, discouraging the other birds from pecking one
another.
If Rooster
damage is a problem then it’s best to separate the lovers and again give the
suffering hen some high protein feed or additive to water to encourage feather regrowth and aid her
often slightly traumatic recovery.