WORMING YOUR CHICKENS

Worming Chickens

Kassandra Smith

Senior Editor • Backyard Chicken Coops

16 September 2014

https://www.backyardchickencoops.com.au/blogs/learning-centre/worming-chickens

Preventing worms in your animals is the unfortunate but necessary job of all pet owners. Looking after your poultry pals is the same drill as any other pet - prevention is the best cure! There are products, natural and medicinal, that you can give to your chickens to prevent worms or kill current ones.
So let’s go inside the not altogether lovely but definitely necessary topic of worming your chickens- yay!
What are worms?
There are a number of different kinds of worms - here are some common ones that are known to affect poultry animals:

• Hair worm - can be found in the oesophagus, intestine, stomach, and the crop.
• Roundworm - affects the digestive system.
• Gizzard worm - affects the gizzard- primarily an issue in geese.
• Gapeworm - affects the trachea and lungs.
• Caecal worm - causes blackhead organisms to occur- particularly potent to turkeys.

 


How do chickens get worms?
Chickens often pick up worms as a result of foraging. Generally, worms are transmitted through droppings, as they live in the droppings of an infected bird. These worms will then stay on the ground until they are picked up by another chicken that’s foraging around for food. The types of worms that are commonly transmitted in this way are roundworms, gizzard worms, hair worms and caecal worms.
The birds can also pick up worms indirectly, through eating creepy crawlies such as earthworms, snails and slugs. This happens because the crawlies the chickens snack on have eaten the worms excreted by another infected bird. Hair worms, gape worms and tapeworms can be transmitted through this method.
What are some signs my chickens might have worms?
There are a number of symptoms that chickens will exhibit if they’re affected by worms - none of them are particularly pleasant, but are important to identify.

• Weight loss or weight gain
• Eating more feed than usual
• Gasping for breath (this will be the result of gapeworms blocking the airway)

How do I treat worms?
There are a number of different products available for the treatment of worms.
- Chicken wormers:
You can buy specially made chicken wormers from any major pet stores or online. It generally comes in liquid, tablet or syrup form, and should be added to your chickens water once every three months. You can generally administer orally as well, but might be easier just popping it into the water! How much you add will depend on your flock size, but there should be guidelines on the box.
The wormers generally cater for the prevention of ALL types of worms, rather than just one specific type.
Some common worming brands (in Australia) include:

• AristoPet Wormenda Poultry Wormer
• MavLab Avitrol Bird Wormer Syrup (tablet form also available)
• Skyes Big Pig and Poultry Wormer
• Vetsense Kilverm Pig and Poultry Wormer

- Natural Remedies:

• Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth is often added into chickens feed because it acts as a natural dewormer. It works by dehydrating the parasites and worms that exist internally. In terms of its effectiveness, the jury still seems to be out on whether it will DEFINITELY kill all parasites, however, feeding your chickens diatomaceous earth is actually great to give them egg-stra trace minerals - so is beneficial regardless.

• Food

Apple Cider Vinegar is a marvellous thing to feed your chickens - it has many great health benefits as its packed with vitamin and mineral goodness, so you should be adding it to your chicken’s water anyway!
In terms of its worming capabilities, Apple Cider Vinegar acts as a mild antiseptic and also a mild antibiotic, so it will kill some bacteria and germs, and deter worms from making a home in your chickens. Again, it’s not a 100% guaranteed treatment, but still beneficial to feed to your chickens.
Garlic is another natural food substance that is known to help keep worms at bay, and makes your chicken’s internals a less attractive place for parasites to settle.  Adding some ground up garlic into your chicken’s feed is a great way to get your chickens to eat it, and you can also pop some slightly crushed cloves into their water. Again, garlic is just great to give to your chickens regardless, as it helps their respiratory system and boosts their immune system.
In terms of what the most effective methods for worming your chickens is, your safest bet is to go with a proper poultry wormer and apply that every three months as a preventative measure as you’d do with any other pet - it’s much better to stop worms rather than cure them!

Deworming the Flock: What You Need to Know

 https://www.communitychickens.com/worming-flock-need-know/    
Posted by Melissa Caughey on October 13, 2014 Visit Tilly's Nest

by Melissa Caughey of Tilly’s Nest
What a hot topic this always seems to be across the poultry world and backyard chicken keepers. Some folks, will tell you that they never deworm their flocks. Others, will tell you that they religiously deworm their flock every six months. Some use traditional deworming products while others prefer natural preventatives. I thought today,  I’d spend a little time chatting with you about worms.

Photo Credit: Chickens exploring the garden.

However, before we blast off into this chat about worms remember, when making any sorts of chicken keeping decisions please:
1. Do your research.
2. There are lots of people with strong opinions out there. Do what works for you and your flock. Only you and your vet can make the right decision.
3. Explore all of your options.
There are a few different types of worms that can affect chickens in different ways and live in different places along their gastrointestional tracts. The more common worms that chicken keepers deal with are tape worms, round worms, hair worms, gape worms, and caecal worms. Chickens that have worms can show a decrease in egg laying, weight loss, diarrhea, pale egg yolks, coughing or rasping, head shaking,  lethargy, and even death.
Sometimes worm infestations are visible to the naked eye. Other times, it is helpful to seek out assistance from a local veterinarian that can run a relatively inexpensive test to detect worms invisible to the naked eye. All vets are capable of running this test.

Image Source: Tape Worm (Photo by Ondrej Zichah)

Having your flock tested for worms serves four purposes:
1. Can confirm a positive diagnosis.
2. Can tell you what types of worms you are treating.
3. Prevents unnecessary use of medications, which stresses the flock.
4. Retest after you have treated your flock for worms to be sure the treatment was effective.
Once the presence of worms in your flock is confirmed, it is best to treat the entire flock. It is important to remember that worms typically have a life cycle from 2 to 8 days. This means that in most cases, your flock will sometimes require two courses of medication. There are quite a few commercial products available on the market today for deworming. It is wonderful that chicken keepers have options. Many of those options are available “over the counter”. When selecting a dewormer for your flock, you will need to know what type of worm(s) your chickens have. Different deworming products target different types of worms. Deworming is stressful on chickens, so avoid deworming under six weeks of age, during the winter, or during the fall molt. Please note that the below medications are those available at time of this publication (October 2014) and are subject to change.  Prior to treating your flock, please check for updated information and always read the package insert. Here are some more tips when the need for medicating your flock arises.


You ask, what is an egg withdrawal period? This means that during the medication treatment all eggs need to be thrown away. They cannot be composted, fed back to the flock, or eaten. After the medication, the package insert will tell you when you can resume eating eggs. The day after the medication is finished, is the first day of egg withdrawal. This can go on for weeks after the last dose of medication. The egg withdrawal period is there to protect you, the consumer. You do not want to inadvertently ingest the medication that your flock was on. It can linger in the eggs and meat of the birds.

Flubenvet 1% safe for use in egg laying hens, withdrawal period only for meatbirds, no egg withdrawal period

Verm-X no egg withdrawal period

Piperazine (Wazine 17)– packaging advises against use in egg laying hens, OK in meat birds with a withdrawal period

Fenbendazole (Panacur)– safe for use in egg laying hens with a withdrawal period. (3CC PER ONE GALLON WATER, AST)

(Hygromycin B) Rooster Booster Triple Action Wormer– no withdrawal period

 As you do your research you will discover that there are some natural products shown to have some effect on worms. The most common being pumpkin seeds, garlic, and food grade diatomaceous earth. I have reviewed the research and the published studies show that these three dietary supplements do reduce the fecal egg count to some degree. However, I would caution anyone to rely solely on these methods alone to deworm the flock. These supplements should probably be thought of as more of preventatives than actual treatment.

Photo Credit: Depending on the wormer directions,  wormers are either added to the feed or the water.

Lastly, here are some more tips to prevent the spread of worms and to help keep their populations at bay.
1. Sunlight helps to kill the worm eggs.

2. Keep a dry environment.

3. Tidy up the coop and run from chicken poop on a regular basis.

4. Always quarantine new additions to the flock for 4 weeks and they should be checked for worms.

5. Keep wild birds out of the chickens’ living area.

6. Avoid overcrowding.

6. Consider adding pumpkin seeds (also squash seeds, cucumber seeds), food grade diatmaceous earth, and garlic to your flock’s diet.

For more information on deworming your flock, please visit my website.

Doses used in studies:

2% of the feed ratio for food grade diatomaceous earth

Garlic 3% of the  feed ratio garlic powder (not garlic salt)

90+ degrees with high humidity and my chickens aren't laying

Top 8 Tips for Keeping Your Backyard Chickens Cool in the Summer

Posted by Laura Hepburn / Wed, May 29, 2013 @ 11:06 AM

 https://info.mannapro.com/homestead/bid/148206/top-8-tips-for-keeping-your-backyard-chickens-cool-in-the-summer               

Well Memorial Day has come and gone and the summer heat is here to stay.  With that in mind, it is important to maintain a cool environment for your flock.  All across the country, temperatures for mid-summer can reach 90+ degrees with high humidity.  Although chickens are very adaptable to weather changes, they usually perform their best around 75 degrees and below.  Consistently high summer temperatures can cause your chickens to suffer from heat stress, overheating, or even stop their egg laying process.  For heavier breeds, extreme heat can even cause death.  Thankfully, there are some things that you can do to help combat the high summer temperatures.

Taming an agressive rooster

https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/aggressive-roosters/


We constantly hear of roosters that are mean to the hens and their keepers. Today we are going to give you a few tips on how to make a rooster ‘Mr. Nice Guy’.
That means you’re going to learn how to tame your aggressive rooster!
It will take some time and patience, so have a good stockpile of both.
We have had a few roosters and the majority of them haven’t been any trouble at all. They have been respectful of people, good to the ladies and rarely requiring any ‘behavior training’. There was one rooster though, Fred, who resisted all efforts at been trained. He flew at my partner one time too many – you can’t win them all.
Please remember that these ideas may not work with your particular bird – use common sense with these ideas, the plan is not to get hurt.
Below I’m going to share with you why roosters can become aggressive, before I share with you my rooster training program!

From Chick to Aggressive Rooster

When the chicks are small, although the boys may be a little stand offish, they can be held, cuddled, handfed and cosseted.

This is a great time to lay the foundation of respect and dominance to your little roosters. You may think it’s cute if he pecks at you – it’s not. He is trying already to be the boss.

Pick him up, especially in front of the hens, talk to him, feed him from your hand if he will and then put him down.
Somewhere between 16-20 weeks, hormones can upend this idyllic period. Suddenly he is a rooster full of testosterone and needs to defend his territory and his flock, interlopers beware – and that can mean you!
It is not personal – it’s just the way roosters are wired and just like a human teenager, he is testing the limits. If you have raised the rooster from a chick, it is usually easier to manage them and teach the rules as they go along.
If you have been given or acquired a rooster, it can be that much more difficult. A lot will depend on how the bird was raised and of course, the breed.

Why Do Roosters Attack?

In the wild, he would defend his flock against threats from predators and other roosters that were looking for some hens to mate with.

His responsibility is to care for the flock and its’ needs and that includes mating with as many hens as he can manage to ensure the success of the flock.

You will need to bear in mind, that aggressive behavior will likely increase in the spring-time because it is the start of the mating season.
We are just going to mention some terms here that you may have heard but aren’t sure of:

• Flogging – the rooster will fly at you and try to beat you with his wings and rake you with the spurs.
• Spurring – as the name suggests, jumping at you and trying to rake you.
• Chasing – he may try this with children more. Chasing you away from the flock. He will stop when he thinks you are no longer a threat.
• Aggressive pecking – not cute, it hurts. Do not tolerate even at the chick stage.

Watch for the ‘Moves’
There are certain signs that a rooster is contemplating an attack. We are going to share them here but be aware that the rooster is the master of the sneak attack!
He will lower his head while looking at you, he may start a little rooster dance – attack is imminent, be ready. Your rooster might try to bring you presents – very sweet, but he only does this for subordinate hens, beware.
The silent stealthy running up behind you, stopping and staring at you. A challenge has been issued, stand your ground, stare back.

How to Train Your Rooster to Be ‘Nice’

Ideas on training roosters are many, some good and bad and plenty of dubious ideas abound on the internet.
I have read of roosters being booted around the yard, having their spurs cut off and other little horrors visited upon them – this is abuse, please do not do this to your roosters. If you feel the need to cull him, please do so in a humane way.
When moving around your flock, your movements should be deliberate and fairly slow paced. Moving quickly unsettles them, putting them on edge – more so the rooster.
Animals think rationally – they cannot afford to make the same mistake twice – it might get them killed.
Remember these key points:

• You are the boss – he needs to learn this. You are not going to take away his purpose in life (mating, protection), but you will not tolerate challenges to your position of alpha flock member.
• Be prepared – just like the Boy Scouts… be prepared for him to challenge you at any time. This way you won’t be taken by surprise.
• Respect him – he has a job to do.
• Space – don’t crowd him, give him space. The only time to move into his space is if he looks like he might be thinking about attacking you.
• Carry a deterrent – deterrents are a great tool. Once the rooster has seen the stick or bottle in action, he will not want to repeat the exercise.

Remember each person who tends to the flock and deals with the rooster will have to follow your lead, no variations in how you treat him. If you give confusing signals he will be unsettled and may read ‘attack’ into a situation where no attack is intended.

Running Them Down

Some folks recommend that you ‘run them down’ – that is walk right through them without stopping. The idea is to get the rooster to move – he may interpret this as an attack and possibly counterattack – not a good thing.
Take one large step into his space while staring him down. He should back up, start fidgeting and he will look towards the ground. You won – walk away slowly.


Do not be afraid – this is a hard one for many folks. After all, no-one likes to be flogged by a rooster! Fear is a weakness in the animal kingdom and will be exploited to the full.
Even if you are frightened, do not run or move away from him – he needs to move first.
Don’t back off- if he starts up with you, don’t move away. If he drops his wings and spreads them slightly ready for attack – do the same. Spread your arms, stare directly at him and take a step into his space. If he is smart he will back off.
At this point, some folks will pick him up and walk around for 10-15 minutes to re-affirm who is the boss.
Do not hurt him – I cannot overemphasize this. Yes, you can control an animal by fear, but it doesn’t make them respect you, in fact in can make them meaner. If you can get him to respect you and your position as alpha, attack is much less likely.
I have read of people turning the rooster upside down and walking around the garden with him like that. This is dangerous for the rooster – because of the anatomy of a chicken, it is possible to cause the air sacs to collapse and have him suffocate – especially if he has just eaten. Please don’t do this.
It is important that you remain calm, quiet and assertive during your interactions with your rooster. Consistency with your interactions is also important. Wear as much protective clothing as you think you may need, long boots are recommended and a long sleeve shirt too.
Be warned though – it doesn’t work on every rooster, but at least you will know you have tried to teach him some manners!

Summary

Much of your success (or failure) will depend on things out of your control such as genetics.
To put things in perspective just remember that roosters were not born to be ‘lap pets’ – it is against their natural behavior.
When you buy your chicks or adult fowl, ask if there are any aggressive tendencies in the flock. Breeds to be cautious of are Old English Game, American Game, Oriental Game, Aseel, Shamo, Sumatra and Malay.
Of course, just because the breed is considered non-aggressive, it doesn’t always follow that the particular birds you have will stay true to type. Chickens are individuals, so personality can vary greatly.
Children should always be kept away from roosters unless a responsible adult is there to supervise.
Lastly, please remember your dominance can be kind; there is no need to be mean or harsh with your 7lb. rooster. Things such as treats, hand feeding, quiet talking and picking him up can help to establish your relationship with him.
Even if he does not accept these things from you, you can re-inforce your ‘alpha’ dominance without resorting to cruel methods.
Working with your rooster will take time and effort on your behalf, if you cannot devote these two things, think about re-homing or culling the bird.
He will likely never be a cuddly fellow, but that is not the aim. He needs to be a defender of the flock but subordinate to you. He may need reinforcement of the idea periodically, but in general you should both be respectful of the others space.
We hope you are successful with your rooster’s training program!