Chick season 2022 is here! We begin with our first batch on Jan 27, 2022. Anice ChickenLady, has retired due to health issues. But Woodville Ace will be doing chicken business as usual. Join our Woodville Ace Chicken Group on Facebook, a link is in the left hand column.
On this blog you will find a list of hatch dates for birds ordered, CLICK ON "What's coming in?". To get your pre-paid special orders in call or come in to assure you get the birds you want.
Now that we have moved past Easter Chicks and our brooder is a little quieter, I have ordered some special birds for those expanding their flock. I do suggest if you want these birds you pre-pay. Please call the store and place an order to insure you get the birds you want. Thank You, Anice
Assorted Silkies 5/1 $ (30 ordered) 3.99 each
Geese 5/8 $12.99 African 4 (brown) Chinese 4 (white)
Turkeys 5/14 $12.99 Bourbon Red 5 Royal Palm ALL SOLD Chocolate 5 Narragansett 5
21 Tips: Keeping Your Chickens Healthy And Safe From Predators
Posted by The Happy Chicken Coop on Posted In: Guides
We all love our fluffy, feathered friends and want to do the best for them. If you already have an established flock or haven’t started yet and are still in the planning stages – this article is definitely for you.
Before I got my chickens I spent the better part of a year researching the breed of chicken I wanted, how to house them and how to keep them safe and healthy.
I was called overly obsessive at times, but so far my efforts have paid off dividends as my girls are healthy and happy and we haven’t had any issues with predators in 5 years.
Today I have put together my favorite 21 tips for keeping your chickens safe from predators and healthy.
Coop Defenses
Protecting your flock from predators starts with the coop.
Whether you buy it pre-made or build the coop yourself, there are several simple things you can do to make it safer for your chickens.
1. Know The Enemy
First of all you, need to be aware of likely predators in your area: foxes, hawks, owls, coyotes, raccoons and possums tend to be the most common.
If you know which predators are likely to attack you can create effective defenses to stop them.
Some of these predators are very smart, others opportunists. Each can be deterred by simple backyard security.
2. Bury Chicken Wire
The Best Chicken Wire
If you are constructing a run, it’s important to remember that many predators will try to dig under the run to attack your girls.
One thing to remember: chicken wire will keep chickens in; hardware mesh will keep predators out.
A determined, hungry animal can and will break through chicken wire.
When building your run, make sure you bury hardware mesh at least 2 feet deep around the compound- 4 feet deep would be ideal.
Dig a trench about 6 inches deep and 3 inches wide and bury the hardware mesh to create an underground security perimeter.
This will deter most predators from digging.
If you are using a chicken tractor instead of a run, the same principal applies. Cover the floor of the tractor in hardware mesh to prevent predators digging their way to your chickens. Note: Occasionally when chickens stand on wire floors in chicken tractors for long periods of time their feet can get cut, so check their feet regularly for cuts or sores.
3. Cover Their Coop
If you live in an area with lots of hawks and owls you will need to place a cover over your run.
You can use chicken wire to cover your run- this still provides your chickens with visibility but stops any air-bound predators swopping down and attacking your flock.
If you want your birds to have some shade, as well as protection, you could use a tarp sheet instead of chicken wire.
4. Increase Visibility
If you are fortunate enough to have a large garden, make sure you cut down any tall grass, bush or overgrown areas within 50-75 feet of your coop.
The less cover a predator has, the more vulnerable they are at being seen before attacking.
This with thwart less confident predators, as they won’t risk exposing themselves to attack.
5. Block Any Access Holes
Make sure you regularly check your coop for any access holes.
Even small trivial gaps/holes can be used by predators to gain access to the coop- a weasel can squeeze through a ½ inch hole.
You do not want a weasel in your coop.
A weasel will kill seemingly for the fun of it and can kill a moderate size flock in a night.
Remember to check your coop at least monthly for signs of attempted entry and reinforce those areas.
6. Lock Your Ladies Up At Night
Most importantly, remember to lock up your ladies at night!
Use a mechanism that can’t be opened by smart creatures. Raccoons are notoriously intelligent and they can open simple locks & bolts.
I like to use a Carabiner because it requires opposable thumbs to use.
Also remember to use a padlock to keep out the ultimate predator – man.
Unfortunately several of my friends have had their chickens stolen either for dinner, or because it’s a rare breed.
I use three locks on my coop – two on the entrance door and a separate lock for the ‘pop’ door.
7. Check Your Biosecurity
Make sure you clean up your pen in the evening after your chickens have gone to roost- pay special attention to any scraps and food lying around.
We may not think of rats as predators, but they are attracted by leftover food. Once they have moved in to the neighborhood, they can and will eat eggs and chicks.
If you see rats during the daytime, it’s likely you have a serious problem. Note: Rats dislike daylight so only the ones lower in the hierarchy will risk a daylight raid.
8. Be Alert For Snakes
Check your coop daily for snakes. Black, rat and corn snakes will pilfer eggs and on occasion, small chicks. They can simply be re-located to another area if necessary, although snakes do help keep down the vermin.
If you find that certain snakes keep returning to your coop, you will need to capture them and relocate them elsewhere.
9. Collect Eggs Daily
A lot of predators will only break into your coop to get eggs.
If you make sure to collect your eggs frequently during the day you will deter many predators- especially rats and snakes!
10. Fit Motion Sensor Lighting
Predators such as raccoons will only attack in the dark at night.
You can fit solar powered motion-detection lights to your coop to stop predators attacking.
The light will turn on when it detects any motion near the coop. They can also be modified to send you an alarm when the lights are activated.
Most predators will simply run away from the spotlight.
Free Ranging Defense
Whilst it’s relatively easy to secure a chicken coop and run, what do you do when your chickens are free-range?
Keeping free range chickens safe is hard but not impossible if you follow the tips below.
11. Hang Your Old CDs
If you have free ranging hens it can be more difficult to protect them against birds of prey.
One effective way I’ve found is to hang unwanted CDs from trees, posts etc.
The reflection of the sun from the CD will deter them. You can also use pie pans, disco balls – anything that will reflect light. Note: Do not use mirrors; you don’t want to accidentally start a fire!
12. Use Electric Fences
If your chickens are free-ranging you can erect an electric fence around the perimeter to keep predators away.
They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
I don’t personally use electric fences, but people I know who have them swear by them.
13. Install Safety Shelters
Sometimes with birds of prey they can get extremely desperate and will attack no matter what.
Make a couple of safety shelters for your birds to run into. You can use a 55 gallon plastic drum cut lengthways or a wooden pallet perched on blocks.
If your chickens get caught out whilst they are roaming they can run underneath these safety shelters to keep covered.
14. Get Roosters
Within town and city limits there are usually restrictions on having roosters – they can be a noisy pest to your neighbors.
There aren’t too many folks who like to be woken up at the crack of dawn by a rooster crowing his head off!
However, if you live in the country it’s usually ok.
A good rooster will protect his ladies and will give his life to preserve theirs. Note: Make sure to research the breed of rooster you want thoroughly before you jump in and get one.
15. Use Guard Dogs
A guard dog does the same job as a rooster – only better.
Dogs can range further away from the flock and the scent of a dog is very disturbing to most predators, so they will likely leave your flock in peace.
Make sure your dog is good with your chickens before you leave them together unattended. You don’t want your guard dog turning into the predator!
Hygiene and Cleanliness
Chickens are inquisitive creatures. They love to investigate new things and this can get them into trouble! The following tips will help you be more aware of potential hazards to your flock.
To keep your chickens safe you need to do more than just keep the predators at bay. Sometimes the biggest threats are already in your garden.
16. Avoid Toxic Chemicals
Weed killer and other commonly used garden chemicals (Insect Baits/Traps etc.) can be accidentally ingested by chickens.
As with small children, keep your flock away from any area of your garden which you may have sprayed or treated. Also keep the chemical bottles well away from your girls.
If your chickens do ingest any toxic chemical call your vet immediately.
17. Botulism
For those of you that haven’t heard of the term Botulism before, it’s a “rare poisoning caused by toxins”.
If you use poison to keep the rodent population in check, be aware your chickens can be poisoned by pecking at the carcass. You should dispose of any dead animals you find somewhere they can’t be accessed.
Botulism can also be caused by fouled drinking water (usually by ducks). If you keep ducks, make sure the chickens don’t make a habit of drinking water which the ducks have pooped in.
18. Clean Their Feeders
Following on from Botulism you need to keep food and water dishes clean.
I use a 1:10 bleach solution weekly in all my feeders and drinkers.
19. Keep Their Feed Fresh
Ensure your feed is fresh and not moldy.
Keep it stored in waterproof containers – plastic totes, garbage bins or something similar. Moldy feed can and does kill chickens, so make sure the lid for your containers is airtight also.
20. Keep Their Coop Tidy
A dirty coop not only attracts flies but can cause a number of health issues for your birds.
For instance high levels of ammonia can cause blindness and respiratory issues. I normally clean my coop once a week and occasionally more during winter. A good test is if you can smell ammonia in your coop – cleaning is overdue!
21. Ensure Regular Health Checks
Last but by no means least is regular health checks.
Try to check your birds visually every day.
Included in your visual health check should be a vent check. They can get matted and poopy back there- this creates a perfect environment for flystrike. Checking Chicken’s VentIf it’s dirty – clean it.
Go gently using soap and water. Sit the bird in the warm water and try to soak off the matted area. You may have to trim some feathers.
These 21 tips will definitely help keep your chickens healthy and the predators at bay!
Easter has always marked the beginning of Spring for
buying baby chicks, ducks and bunnies as well as starting vegetable and flower gardens.
Each year we order our Easter Chicks in January to assure we have a brooder
full for those that follow this tradition.
This week our brooder will be over flowing with lots of
baby chicks,. Here is our line up
There’s little doubt that you will consider buying baby chicks, ducklings or bunnies once they begin to appear in the garden centers and feed stores across the country. The cute factor is almost too much to resist! Many will fall prey to the cute little chicks and ducklings and decide to give them as Easter or Spring gifts. How can you ensure that this will be a successful endeavor for you and your family? If you are either the recipient or the giver of live animals for Easter, read on for some helpful thoughts on making it a successful journey.
Caring for baby chicks, ducks, and rabbits requires thought about how the animals will fit into your life. Those cute little balls of fluff are a lifetime commitment, at least the expected lifetime of the animal. In our more agrarian past, many people had some sort of farming or homesteading going on in their backyard. Or, they had a close by relative that lived on the farm.
Today, this is not usually the case. Many live Easter basket gifts are turned out to fend for themselves, once they grow bigger and messier. They may be turned into the local animal shelter, which is probably not equipped to care for or place grown rabbits, chickens and ducks. Chickens and Ducks are considered livestock and there may be local zoning laws not prohibiting backyard chickens in residential yards. Rabbits might be considered pets but not everyone appreciates the behavior of a house rabbit.
What to Know When Buying Baby Chicks, Ducklings, and Bunnies
Before buying baby chicks, ducklings, or baby rabbits for Easter gifts, take a moment to consider the following points. Did you plan on raising animals in your backyard? The nicely maintained patio with flower beds and lawn chairs will become a playground for your new flock once they are turned out to free range in the yard. If you don’t have a secure fence, your neighbors may receive the benefits of chickens in their backyard too. The neighbors might not enjoy free ranging chickens, so this is definitely a point to clear up before bringing home chicks. Are your children responsible? Are they old enough to learn about caring for baby chicks? Parental supervision will still be required in most cases. Many children can master the tasks of feeding watering and cleaning up a small coop. It’s still a good practice to take a look and make sure that everything was taken care of, as children can be easily distracted. Have you considered the entire life span of the chicken, duck or rabbit? Chickens can easily live 5 to 8 years. Your laying hen will provide fresh eggs for the first few years. Then the egg laying will taper off until it rarely happens. The older hens still need food and a safe place to shelter. Ducks are friendly, agreeable pets and they also have rather long lifespans. Ducks provide endless entertainment which can add to the enjoyment the family finds taking care of the animals. Rabbits are excellent pets and can provide additional income for families willing to breed or sell meat rabbits. A healthy breeding pair will require separate living quarters so you can control the breeding. Where will the animal be housed? Is this realistic? You’ll need to research topics like “what does a chicken coop need“. Have you looked into housing requirements for chicks, ducklings and rabbits? Often, the least expensive coops and hutches are not predator resistant. The good news is that after buying baby chicks, the chicks will need to stay indoors until the weather warms up consistently. Keeping a brooder pen in your house or garage for the first few weeks will give you some time to obtain a sturdy, outdoor coop and run for the chickens. This will be needed once they grow feathers and can stay warm without heat lights. Can you afford the food, and care the animals require? Do you have answers to common questions like: What do your feed baby ducks for proper growth?
Learning how to raise baby chicks is a rewarding project for families and individuals. It can bring much joy along with farm fresh eggs. Even keeping ducks in suburbia is possible and fun when some planning is used before bringing home ducklings. Make a list of what you will need for your own flock. When you visit the garden centers and farm stores this spring, you will be an informed shopper and bringing home the new fluffy family will be even more enjoyable. Are you planning on buying baby chicks this season? Janet writes about many homesteads and livestock related topics on her blog Timber Creek Farm. Her book, Chickens From Scratch, is available now.
Wild turkeys like these are the descendents of the birds pilgrims would've encountered. They haven't been tampered with genetically.
Stephen J. Krasemann / Photographer's Choice /Getty Images
When Ben Franklin suggested in 1784 that the turkey be the national bird of the United States, he couldn't have imagined the factory farms teeming with fat, dumb broad-breasted white turkeys.
Turkeys raised in today's factory farms are unrecognizable from the wild birds Franklin knew. Industry-bred birds have unusually large breasts, so disproportionate with the rest of their bodies that they often have trouble standing, walking and mating -- these turkeys rely on artificial insemination for reproduction. They begin life hatched in incubators, have their upper beaks and toenails clipped and spend their days and nights eating fortified corn in a barn full of hundreds of fellow turkeys. Their limited family tree has bred them to be dim-witted and disease-prone; they're given antibiotics to prevent a variety of ailments. Industry turkeys are abnormally fast growing, and by the time they're 12 weeks old, they're shipped off to the slaughterhouse.
There is an alternative to factory breeding: heritage turkeys, which were nearly extinct as recently as the end of the 20th century. But in the 2006 U.S. turkey census, there were about 8,800 heritage turkeys -- a big jump from the 1,300 heritage turkeys in 1997 [source: Mapes]. They're making a comeback with the help of small enthusiast groups and the Slow Food movement, and you can buy them in some specialty markets around the country. Slow Food aficionados value knowing where the food they eat comes from, how it's raised, how it tastes and how it's linked to the community and the environment. And they'll tell you a heritage bird isn't in the same league as the frozen, bowling-ball shaped turkey in your local market's freezer. These birds have rich, gamey meat that doesn't need gravy to add flavor.
The American Poultry Association lists less than a dozen heritage turkey breeds that meet its Standard of Perfection, including the standard bronze, Beltsville small white, black, Bourbon red, Jersey buff, Narragansett, royal palm, slate, white Holland and white midget.
To be considered a heritage variety, the turkey needs to meet three criteria. First, it needs to mate naturally, and its genetic legacy must also be bred naturally. Second, it must live a long and productive life outdoors, which means it must be fit and self-reliant enough to endure whatever the environment throws its way. Unlike industry-bred birds, heritage turkeys can roost, run and fly. Hens (female turkeys) typically live for five to seven years while toms (male turkeys) live about three to five years [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy]. And lastly, it should grow at a slow rate. While broad-breasted white turkeys are bred for their ability to mature quickly, heritage turkeys are allowed to take their time -- the development of healthy skeletons, organs and muscles can take up to 28 weeks [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy].
But most Americans will be sticking to the easy-to-find broad-breasted white. So when you give thanks over your turkey this Thanksgiving, remember to thank selective breeding for the bounty of white meat of which you are about to partake.
